The Glamorous Lives of Court Painters
When we think of artists from the past, the image that often comes to mind is that of eccentric, misunderstood individuals who lived and died in poverty. Yet, there were a few who achieved extraordinary success and lived brilliant lives. One such figure—whom many aspire not just to paint like, but to live like—is the 17th-century painter Peter Paul Rubens. This dress design is inspired by one of his masterpieces.
Born in Germany to a respected lawyer and a noble mother, Rubens (1577–1640) grew up in Flanders (modern-day Belgium) under strict discipline and a refined education. Though he set his sights on becoming a painter, his dignified demeanor, intelligence, diligence, charm, and handsome appearance soon gained him fame as a diplomat as well. This led to numerous commissions from royal courts across Europe.
“The Honeysuckle Bower”
Painted by Peter Paul Rubens, 1609–1610, Alte Pinakothek (Germany)
*This portrait depicts Rubens and his first wife, painted to commemorate their marriage. They are dressed in aristocratic finery, reflecting their elevated status.
“Worth More Than Its Price!”Rubens, Beloved by Royal Courts
Rubens wasn't just charming—his exceptional artistic skills captivated patrons. The dynamism and dramatic composition in his works left viewers in awe. He also had a unique gift for rendering the sensual beauty of women’s skin, leading some to say it was “made of milk and blood.”
He often delivered more than was requested, delighting clients. His works incorporated ancient Roman customs and mythology, packed with symbolism and majestic presence, resulting in multi-layered masterpieces.
The print on this dress features Rubens’ painting, “The Triumph of the Church over Ignorance and Blindness.” At the time, tensions between Catholics and Protestants were high, and this work boldly portrays the Catholic Church’s victory over Protestantism. Only those with historical knowledge might catch the pointed symbolism—it’s quite a bold critique.
Left: Dress “Architecture Poétique” in pink
Right: “The Triumph of the Church over Ignorance and Blindness”
Painted by Peter Paul Rubens, 1577–1640, Prado Museum (Spain)
*The woman in the chariot represents the Catholic Church. She wears a papal crown and holds a monstrance. The chariot and horses evoke a Roman triumph. Angels above signify divine blessing. The globe and ouroboros below symbolize eternal Catholic rule. Meanwhile, symbols under the wheels mock Protestants: Medusa's hair represents envy, donkey ears symbolize ignorance, and the blindfold denotes blindness.
Incidentally, the famous painting that the boy Nello longed to see before his death in the novel “A Dog of Flanders” was Rubens’ “The Descent from the Cross.”
“The Descent from the Cross”
Painted by Peter Paul Rubens, 1611–1614, Cathedral of Our Lady (Belgium)
Rubens became a court painter and was later knighted in England. He even owned a castle, living a life of grand success. He died at age 62, reportedly from gout—known as a “rich man’s disease.” By the end, he could no longer move the fingers he once used to paint. Still, what a remarkable life he led.
Boucher, Master of Seductive Charm
This dress also comes in an alternate version with a different color and motif, inspired by François Boucher (1703–1770), a leading French painter of the Rococo era. Boucher learned much from Rubens, including his use of color, brushwork, and the art of allegorical storytelling.
Left: Dress “Architecture Poétique” in blue
Right: “The Bird Catchers”
Painted by François Boucher, 1748, J. Paul Getty Museum (USA)
*An oil painting created as a design for a tapestry—similar to Rubens’ “The Triumph of the Church.”
The painting’s title is “The Bird Catchers.” In a romanticized pastoral scene, a woman holds a bird on her finger, while a man places one in a cage—a symbol of courtship. For the aristocracy of the time, who idealized love above all, this charming tableau likely embodied their dream of sweet, playful romance.
Boucher was a favorite of Madame de Pompadour, mistress to King Louis XV. Like Rubens, he thrived as a court painter, producing sensuous artworks that delighted the nobility. He also created elegant interior designs, becoming a leading figure in the Rococo movement.
However, when the Rococo style fell out of favor for lacking substance, Boucher’s reputation plummeted. His art was dismissed as outdated and frivolous. (*Thankfully, he is now highly reappraised!)
Left: “Madame de Pompadour”
Painted by François Boucher, 1756, Alte Pinakothek (Germany)
Right: “Portrait of François Boucher”
Painted by Gustaf Lundberg, 1695–1786, Louvre Museum (France)
Written by: Mariko Suzuki
Check out her debut book “Gothic & Lolita Dictionary,” now in reprint!
https://amzn.asia/d/bnoBDjv
—References—
★“The Labyrinth of the Great Masters” by Taiji Kimura (Shueisha)
★“Understanding Western Art by Artist” (Revised) by Masayuki Okabe (Tokyo Bijutsu)
★“The Kindest Guide to Western Art History” by Hidehiro Ikegami (Shinsei Publishing)
★“Fun Art Encyclopedia: 17th–18th Century Art” by Christopher McHugh (Kaiseisha)
★“The World of Rococo” by Max von Boehn (Sanshusha)