Only girls can catch a unicorn
DressChant des Licornes
First, let's talk about the main character of this dress—the unicorn. The unicorn is a legendary creature passed down since ancient times, said to be a white foal with twisted horn on its forehead and legs like an antelope. It was fierce in nature; according to later folklore attached to the Old Testament story of Noah’s Ark, it disturbed other animals on the ark and was thrown into the sea by Noah. It is gentle only toward virgins and would nuzzle into their lap, which is why only girls could capture it. The captured unicorn’s horn was said to have healing powers and was used as an antidote.
Left: "Unicorn" by Maerten de Vos, 1572, Schwerin State Museum
Right: "Virgin and the Unicorn" by Domenichino, 1602, Palazzo Farnese
In recent years, with the “dreamy cute” trend, unicorns have become beloved fairy-tale creatures for children and no longer seem fierce.
A room of the "Dream Zoo" in the white castle on the lake
The unicorn depicted on this dress was originally part of a German castle decoration. In 1572, Belgian painter Maerten de Vos (1532-1603) created it as part of a series of ten animal paintings, decorating a room called the "Dream Zoo" in Schwerin Castle, located on an island in a lake.
The castle, often called "the Northern Neuschwanstein" or "Fairy Tale Castle," is whimsical and was registered as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site in 2024.
Left: "Portrait of Maerten de Vos" by Aegidius Sadeler, Metropolitan Museum of Art
Right: "Schwerin Castle, aerial view from the east" by Carsten Stäger
Now, these works are displayed at the Schwerin State Museum near Schwerin Castle, also palace-like. Both locations befit the sacred unicorn, symbolizing "purity," "chastity," and "miracles".
From iconoclasm to the era of lavish floral paintings
Next, let's look at the "flowers" printed on the dress. In Western Christian societies, painting was traditionally focused on depicting famous figures from the Bible, history, or mythology. Flowers on clothing became the focus after the 17th century, during the Protestant era, when religious images were destroyed. In Protestant-majority and trade-dominant regions such as the Netherlands and Flanders, still-life paintings of flowers became popular. Though not frequently mentioned in art history books, for women with a youthful heart, beautiful flowers and adorable mythical creatures fulfill the spirit.
DressChant des Licornes
Under these beloved motifs, there is a printed pattern inspired by 18th-century premium Belgian linen lace cherished by royalty, completing a dress made truly for young ladies.
Left: "Still Life with Flowers" by Harmanus Wupping, 1789
Right: Printed lace pattern
Credits
Writer: Mariko Suzuki
★First solo book "Gothic & Lolita Dictionary" (Seibundō Shinkōsha) 3rd edition confirmed!
References
"Encyclopedia of Accessory History" by K.M. Lester & B.V. Oak / Yasaka Publishing
"Introduction to Western Art History for Appreciation" by Yuko Hayasaka / Visual Design Research Institute
"Dictionary of Mythical Creatures" by Jorge Luis Borges / Kawade Shobo Shinsha
"Complete Guide to Enjoying Western Painting" by Yukiyama Koji / Ikeda Shoten
"Textile Terminology Dictionary" by Noriko Narita / Textile Tree