Hospital de Sant Pau Robe (jsk)-Art Cloumn-

Capturing the "Overwhelming Beauty" Found in Barcelona into Clothing  

　Juliette et Justine's designer, Mari Nakamura, believes that those who wear "overwhelming beauty" become beings of "overwhelming beauty." When people wear beautiful clothes, they indeed shine with beauty.

　The "Hospital de Sant Pau Robe (jsk)" draws its motif from the architecture of Barcelona, Spain. Nakamura traveled to Barcelona in 2015 for Juliette et Justine's catalog photoshoot. During her visit, she explored numerous buildings from the late 19th to early 20th century, known as "Modernisme," throughout the city. She was deeply moved by the perfect beauty that fused divinity with architecture. She wanted to capture this essence in clothing and share it with those who wear them.

The elegant lines reminiscent of plants and flowers evoke "Art Nouveau"

　So, what exactly is "Modernisme"? "Art Nouveau" is a decorative style that began in Belgium and flourished across Europe from the late 19th to early 20th century. In the realm of illustration, Alphonse Mucha is very famous. As you may know, the characteristic flowing lines reminiscent of plants and flowers are delicate and beautiful! Art Nouveau extended beyond illustrations to include jewelry, interior decoration, and architecture.

　In Europe, buildings were predominantly heavy and massive, but around this time, the use of cast iron and glass became widespread. This allowed for the creation of organic and delicate curves, typical of Art Nouveau, resulting in lighter architectural designs.

　Art Nouveau is known by different names in different countries. In Germany, it is called "Jugendstil" (Youth Style), and in Belgium and France, it is known as "Art Nouveau" (New Art). Naturally, each country has its own distinct characteristics.

"Modernisme" Architecture Born in Spain  

　The wave of Art Nouveau also reached Spain, the southernmost part of Europe, giving rise to the unique "Modernisme" architecture. The most famous Modernisme building is Antoni Gaudí's "Sagrada Família." Construction began in 1883 and it remains unfinished to this day.

　Gaudí's teacher during his time at architecture school was Lluís Domènech i Montaner, the architect of the "Hospital de Sant Pau," which inspired the textile design for the "Hospital de Sant Pau Robe (jsk)." This building, designed by Montaner in 1902, is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. However, this is not a complete example of Modernisme. Montaner's fully realized Modernisme work includes the "Palau de la Música Catalana," also a UNESCO World Heritage site.

May the dragonfly wings bring happiness

 　Now, let's look at the central part of the skirt, where you can see the large, spread-out dragonfly wings. In Art Nouveau, not only plant lines but also insects with wings, particularly dragonflies, are commonly used as motifs. Nakamura designed this dress with the hope that if the wearer feels sadness or fatigue, the dragonfly will swiftly bring them good fortune and healing.

 Written by Mariko Suzuki

※Published my first book "Gothic & Lolita Dictionary" on July 10, 2024!