Trompe-l'œil Technique Painted 'Curiosity Collection'
The main feature of this dress from Juliette et Justine is an oil painting created using the "Trompe-l'œil" technique, which makes the depicted objects appear as if they exist in reality. This French term means "deceive the eye," and in English, it translates to "Trick Art."
The title of this painting is "Curiosity Collection." The painting showcases various intriguing items, such as skulls, coral, and portraits, collected without a clear theme. There is even a theory that somewhere in this painting, dried dragon's blood and the skeleton of a mythical creature are included. (You can zoom in and explore the depths of the cabinet from the University of Oxford's website: https://www.cabinet.ox.ac.uk/domenico-remps-1690s). This painting interestingly blends reality and illusion using the Trompe-l'œil technique.
The hobby of collecting such "curiosities" started in the 15th century during the Italian Renaissance among the nobility, and by the 16th century, it had spread to the German-speaking regions.
DressWunderkammer
16th century. The Wunderkammer of the collector king
The Cabinet of curiosities, originating in Italy, was known as the "Wunderkammer-wonder rooms" in the 16th century in German-speaking regions, popular among royalty such as the Habsburg Empire. One of the most famous among eccentric collectors was Rudolf II (1576-1612), King of Bohemia and Holy Roman Emperor. He delighted in collecting numerous curiosities from around the world but eventually earned the moniker "Mad Emperor" and fell from favor, abdicating his throne. His residence, Prague Castle (in Czech Republic), notably includes an area known as the "Golden Lane," where alchemists and astronomers were housed.
Of course, his collection was dismantled and dispersed, as were most collections from the Cabinet of curiosities. Sadly, many items gathered in these cabinets lost their value and were scattered over time.
Here we have amusing portraits commissioned by Rudolf II from two painters. Additionally, there are "composite portraits" featuring vegetables and others that are considered official portraits! Truly fitting portraits for a collector of curiosities!
17th century. The Wunderkammer became a large museum in Russia
In the 17th century, one of the collector kings obsessed with Wunderkammer was Augustus II (1670-1733) from Dresden, Germany. His distant friend, the great Tsar of Russia, Peter I (1672-1725), also ignited his collector's spirit under Augustus II's influence and devoted great effort to creating an extensive Wunderkammer.
Peter the Great's Wunderkammer, now known as the "Kunstkamera," exhibits works made of skeletons, bizarre diseases and deformities purchased from anatomists, fetuses preserved in formalin, and wax figures showing the internal structure of the human body. One particularly shocking exhibit is the head of his wife's lover, preserved in formalin.
Regardless of the taste, it is a precious "Cabinet of Wonders" that still exists today. ※ This Kunstkamera is located in Saint Petersburg, Russia. "Saint Petersburg" means "Peter's City" in German, named by Peter the Great himself. Kunstkamera is also a German name. He was evidently a German enthusiast!
Evening Scene of the Kunstkamera
Written by Mariko Suzuki
※※Her first book "Gothic & Lolita Dictionary" will be published on July 10, 2024!
References:
⚫︎"Thoughts on Museums" by Hideharu Matsumiya / Hakusuisha Publishing
⚫︎"The Joy of Collecting: The Mystery of Wunderkammer" by Masayasu Komiya / Shueisha Shinsho Visual Edition (※Highly recommended!)
⚫︎"Journey through the Strange World: Europe Edition" by Kyoichi Tsuzuki / Chikuma Shobo Publishing
⚫︎https://www.wga.hu/html_m/r/remps/cabinet.html
⚫︎https://www.phillipscollection.org/collecting-interactive/activity-6-2
⚫︎https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Cabinet-of-Curiosities-1690s-a-trompe-loeil-painting-by-Domenico-Remps-now-in_fig2_354299542
⚫︎https://marronsky.hatenablog.com/entry/kunstkamera
⚫︎https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E3%82%AF%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B9%E3%83%88%E3%82%AB%E3%83%A1%E3%83%A9
⚫︎https://jp.rbth.com/multimedia/pictures/2014/12/11/51409